18th Century · Hats · Historical · Sewing

Easy Peasy 18th Century Headwear

I’m a day behind this week because my precious little boy, my Jesse James (he’s a cuddly outlaw, don’t worry) was sick. I was stuck at work, but I have understanding parents who helped get him into a vet last minute, get him his shots and meds and catch any infection before it got bad. Doesn’t mean this cat mom wasn’t royally freaking out and snuggling him when I got home. Alas, that meant pushing this bad a day. But it’s here! No worries.

I’m talking about another bit of historical headwear, but I promise there’s some Jessica Jones, Captain Marvel, retro Tardis love, and slow work on a big Tudor project I intend to complete by this fall, all in the pipeline.

This little headwear was thrown together last minute, we’re talking HOURS, before the event, to match my Redingote I finished the night before. Yes, it was all very last minute. And I hadn’t even thought I was going to wear anything on my head, justifying that I was indoors, but I couldn’t bring myself so the panic search for an appropriate piece to match a Redingote began. Then I found these lovelies. These are just two examples, but did enough contemporary painting searches to ensure that it was a THING. I always want to make sure there’s a slight trend when I’m making something, even the unusual somethings.

So what to do when there’s only hours to go, and you can’t get to a craft store for supplies? You go digging in your closet. Now, I will admit that I have a bit more to work with than some. I have a closet of historical and costume pieces, a trunk of fabric (that I’m working through and am determined to get down to only half by this summer), and craft bits all over. I need help. But I digress.

Remember the sun hat from last week? I also had one sitting up in my closet from a couple years ago that I did nothing with, not even wear to a beach. I pulled it down. It had the perfect rim size, and a good, light base. Done. Then I also had a bit of jewelry wire I had purchased at Walmart in the random jewelry basket for only $1. Sturdy enough for the job. I whipped the wire to the brim of hat, giving it stability, and shaping capabilities.

The harder part is the fabric covering. I had JUST enough fabric left over from the Redingote, and I mean JUST enough. So I traced the rim with a bit of seam allowance, made two donuts. Then I free hand drew a circle large enough to make a decent poof to cover the crown. Basically, that was as big as whatever piece I had left over, and then just hoped for the best. I got lucky.

I stitched that big circle with gathering stitches, attached it to one of the donuts, and fought with the sun hat to get it all in like a weird shaped pillow. Then, I just tacked the inside to the sweat band. To cover the not so pretty joining of the brim to the crown, I found a piece of ivory ribbon just long enough, pinched it in places, and called it good.

The jewelry wire came in handy when I needed to pull up the side, tack it, and dig out some flowers from my craft stash (I had some left over from a 1860s spoon bonnet). A little bow, and voila, a hat. I finished it JUST as I needed to get ready.

Just a note on the hair… yes, that is all my hair, no rat. Just my smallest soft curlers overnight, teased, and a whole pack of bobby pins to pull it up shorter and pin. My hair, at the time, was to the middle of my back, so it can be done. It’s much shorter now, so it’d actually be easier. Not so easy to brush out and wash all the hair spray.

Hats · Historical · Regency

Turban It Up

This week is a little different. I’ve talked about cosplays and different retro inspired topics, but now I’ll get into a more historical reenactment flare, and doing it on the cheap.

It’s my never-ending despair that so many reenactors insist that the hobby (regardless of era) is expensive. I’ve here to say: you can do it on a budget, and not sacrifice historical accuracy in the process. Saying otherwise is so very detrimental to the hobby, and to encouraging others to partake in history. I’m advocating for inclusivity, while educating.

So there’s just a taste of my soap box. I’ll step down now.

This week, I’m going to present a cute, little fixed turban hat for the Regency era.

Turbans were quite popular in the Regency era (what folks typically think of when we talk about Jane Austen for a reference). They varied from pieces of beautiful fabric wrapped, and tied around the head, and those that were “fixed,” or made to look wrapped, but in actuality, tacked down as a proper hat.

I had originally thought to simply cut my matching fabric and wrap around my head. There’s plenty of good tutorials on the internet for that, but then I grabbed the fabric and realized that I didn’t quite have enough. To the internet I went, and found this wonderful tutorial by one of my favorite blogs and historical seamstresses: Festive Attyre.

Conveniently, sun hats are on the cheap at places like Target and Walmart, so I picked up a cheap one from Target and cut the brim off. Warning, don’t do this on carpet with a nosy kitty. The straw bits shed and then you have to painstakingly pick up the pieces.

After, I cut a strip for the band around the printed edge of my fabric (PS. I’ll talk more about this fabric when I post about the dress itself that matches it when I wear it in a few weeks). I cut a giant oval, and went to work following the tutorial.

It was fairly easy, and I’m no milliner. In fact, that’s where I will save and spend: on hats. They’re tricky buggers. Not this one. I really enjoyed the draping, and inconsistency of the pleating. You cut your fabric, then sit and just pin and stitch. I actually did it watching television, and in the span of a movie, had it complete.

The final touches, the pulling, and folding on the access of the crown poof (though I’ve seen enough evidence of different hats that you could stop there if that’s the look you’re going for), is a trial and error, pull, tack with pins, and stare at it for a bit, experiment. I redid my pins about three times before I ended up with the final product.

In the end, it creates this cute fixed turban. Now, I haven’t decided if I’m sticking some flowers or feathers in it (probably feathers), and I still need to line it (though I just may not)…but for $5 and some left over fabric, I have a cute hat that is 100% accurate, and didn’t break my bank.